I’m in Coyhaique, half way along the Carretera Austral. I’ve written an entry, but I’m not happy with it for now, and I haven’t managed to upload any photos.
So, I’m alive, tired, and continuing south. More details to come when I find another computer. That could take some time in this region. Maybe give me a week or two.
Someone should slap the Argentinians. They’ve instigated daylight savings. So now, on the western side of the country the sun rises about 8am, and sets – get this – at almost 10 at night. Add twilight to that, and you’re well into sleeping territory when the fire for the barbecue is being lit.
Which means catching a 9:30 ferry, 25km from the campsite, was rather ambitious. I don’t enjoy 5am starts, especially since this is (in theory) a holiday. But we made it, and began the touristy Crus de lagos from Bariloche in Argentina to Petrohué (or Puerto Montt) in Chile. A rather scenic, and rather expensive, way to cross between the two countries. I must admit it was rather scenic, and I’m not sure if the constant bombardment from the horse flies was part of the price, or at no extra charge just for the cyclists. The most used word is slipping from “wow” to something like “f&%$ing flies”. Really, I catch myself saying “wow” more than you could imagine on this trip – there is so much that is different from the normal – sitting in front of a computer – life. I hope that starts again soon – Patagonia is just there!
But we’re in Peurto Montt for a few days at least. Some gear needs repair, the bikes need cleaning. And the ferry is full for 8 days. Bugger. So I think we’ll ride around the inlet, and the short jump to Chaitén will instead be a ride. But there are two parks on the way, so it’ll be pleasant (if we end up going there). Not sure. Will sleep on it, and a bed for the first time in several weeks.
Is living up to it’s name as a great tourist attraction. Unfortunately, the Argentinians have also heard of it and it is currently summer holidays. So I am meeting many, many cycle tourists each day – mostly Argentinians from the big cities (read: are city folk who don’t respond to a friendly wave or hello most of the time). The campsites are FULL and the roads are also relatively busy with mad Argentine drivers. I’ve also bumped into a few more long term cyclists – a Dutch family, a couple from Lithuania and two couples from Germany. Looks like the further south we head, the more cyclists are around!
After the comparative boredom of the highway south from Santiago to Victoria, the roads have been far more pleasant. I have also managed to drive myself into the ground with a desire to get south quickly. In ten days of riding I’ve travelled 1300km, with only one rest day. Not a bad effort if I do say myself. But now I am tired, really tired. The sort of tired I can only compare to after a hard lot of exams at uni. I don’t really know, but it’s probably not that far from the same tiredness as those with new children. My legs are buggered, and I can hardly stay awake. The best news is that I’ve caught up to Jorg and Rahel, and the next few days will involve several (relatively expensive) ferries – and not a whole lot of riding. So I’ll be back to my old self soon.
After Victoria the road I’d chosen headed straight at Volcano Llaima. The military control informed me that this one was, indeed, the volcano that had erupted on 1 Jan this year. So? Well, the lava had flowed far enough down the volcano to cut off the road. Ahhh. Change of plans. In a burst of usefulness, the soldier told me about a similar dirt road that went more to the west, and had (so far) been outside the lava flow, and more importantly was open to traffic. It followed the “Ruta Interlagos” a sort of ‘tourist drive’ (and wasn’t on my map). So, rather than go back the way I came, I took it. The road deteriorated. and then seemed to hit a cliff. I rarely have to walk, but this road was steep. Lock the bikes brakes on, take two steps, haul on the bike, lock the brakes on. Repeat. Was real fun at the end of the day. Someone (on horseback) told me about a lookout at the top that would suffice as a campsite, so I kept looking out for the top. After a while I noticed I could again see the volcano, only 15-20km away. I didn’t hear anything, but suddenly there was a significant cloud of smoke. Another eruption. No danger, but a pretty special occasion.
I camped within sight of the top hoping for a lava show after dark – but the clouds had better ideas and instead sent me to bed early.
I continued to follow the Ruta Interlagos for the next day, since I had no better offer, and it continued to head toward Villarrica (the right way anyway). The dirt road, lakes, views of volcanoes, trees, green farms, flowers… just kept coming. Pretty nice stretch.
In defiance of the blue skies, I performed a (successful) rain dance by washing my cycling gear – while camping, alone, at a great spot by a river. Not even any bugs – sometimes you just get lucky. The next morning, everything was wet, but I was prepared – I have a second set of clothes now. So no real drama, the rain cleared in the afternoon, and I though that might have been it. The next night I camped next to a waterfall, much higher in the mountains, as I was heading back toward Argentina. Again, nice campsite. Again rain in the morning. Except this day, the rain was more like a bucket of water had been emptied over me, more or less continuously. The whole day I only managed 80km, and a two hour ferry ride. I was cycling along the edge of the lakes, but occasionally though maybe I was in one of them. It was wet!!! Pity that my rain coat really is too old. So I got cold and wet. Remember the washed clothes? Well, the main set were wet, the spares were wet and it was still raining – not so comfortable now. But I did avoid the snow that I later found out was only a little way south. Of course snow always looks great in the mountains, and huge forests cannot survive without rain – so you take the bad and hope that the good is better. The forests and terrain around here are worth a day or two of discomfort. It’s just a pity that I kept going through the bad days – if I’d stopped I could have been reasonably comfortable in a campsite somwhere and seen the views after the weather cleared. One lives and (hopefully) learns.
So after many miles of grinding my chain away (rain does wonders to the dirt roads, and doesn’t assist in maintaining a clean bike), I arrived in San Martin, and another two days (one of more exceptional views of lakes and mountains, and dirt roads, one of wind) took me to Bariloche. From here, there are several options, but Jorg, Rahel and I narrowed it to two. Take the asphalt road in Argentina for several hundred kilometers past more lakes, but on a road that essentially looks, err… long and cut out some of the Caraterra Austral, or take a reasonably expensive ferry back into Chile and head toward Puerto Montt and the start of the Caraterra Austral. The views promise to be worth the ferry (and legs took a small part of the vote – moving without further killing the legs seems like a good idea right now).
So we’re on the edge of Patagonia. The weather has already given us a taste of what is to come. The cyclist heading north haven’t yet scared us off (100km/h wind – pah!). The scenery is just getting better. I think I’m getting to the good bit 
Always seem to provide the most excitement. This one (Volcano Llaima) is currently errupting, so the police wouldn’t let me get near. Again helping to save me from myself. Pity though, the road I had planned to take was cut, and the only alternative is horribly steep. And dirt. But scenic. So I took it.
Or the sign should have said that. The main road south of Santiago is a thumping great two lane divided highway, and I’ve seen little else for four days. At least the surrounding land is irrigated, so it is green and ocasionally some trees grant some shade. But it is, in essence, dull. The great, almost flat road, makes for fast riding though; I’ve cracked just over 600km in 4 days. Ushuaia here we come!
About 100km before Victoria (the turn off as far as I was concerned), around Los Angeles – hang on, did I take a wrong turn somewhere and end up in california? – the road started to undulate more, forests appeared and it wasn’t quite so boring. I passed through Collipulli. Similar to Collie, Richard. They have a thumping great bridge across a valley, possibly the only thing of note about the town. It is a big bridge.
But, since Victoria, on the 50 odd km road to Curacautín, everything has changed. The summer flowers are blooming amongst the grasses in the fields. The smell of the grasses, is well, summery. The trees are big. The valleys are also deep, but that doesn’t matter – the views are worth the climbs. Oh, and the sky is blue. Blue like it should be, no smog anywhere.
The next part is into the lakes district, and if it is like this, it’ll be very pleasant. Past a volcano or two. Possibly the odd lake. If you are stuck in an office, hope you enjoy it 
I’m out here, loving it!!
After a week in Santiago, culminating in the New Years thing (with mucho fireworks), we saddled up and headed south once again. It was expected to be a little boring – mountains on one side, desert on the other, and a thumping great motorway full of cars, trucks and buses to follow. And it was exactly like this. Except the desert is actually green farms – there is a lot of irrigation here, and lots of wineries.
But it was still boring. Same ol’ for a long way. So Jörg and Rahel talked themselves into a rapid cycling day, which will see them riding about 450km south in one hit (riding a bus perhaps). The real reason we wanted to speed up a bit is summer is advancing, and Ushuaia is still a long way away. I, being a little crazy, would like to ride the whole way, and so I’m riding the boring bit. I hope to catch up to Jörg and Rahel in a week or so, when we get to the good stuff again around the Siete Lagos (7 lakes), or possibly in northern Patagonia. Depends on how speedy we are.
Another day in Santiago. We woke up, began packing and realised how much we had unpacked in 6 days, and so taking another to put it all together. Tomorrow, for sure, back on the road.
So I’m killing time on the internet. Seriously killing, lots of time. For example, finding innane things on Youtube.
“Travels around and around and back again” has been replaced by Adventures of Stephen. The round and round is missleading, I’m just going south for now Also the back again seems to be in the distant future.
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